BEHIND THE DESIGN:
The V&A and Oliver Bonas Jewellery Collaboration
To celebrate the launch of the range, we spoke with Amelia Calver, Research and Development Manager for the V&A, to find out more about Anna Maria Garthwaite, the 18th century fabric designer whose pattern designs inspired the range. We also caught up with the OB Jewellery Team’s Senior Buyer Rebecca Jones and Senior Jewellery Designer Deborah Allen to explore the design process behind the jewellery pieces.
A pioneering female designer
The botanical-inspired pieces we finally settled on were adapted from the silk fabric designs created by Anna Maria Garthwaite in the 1700s. A pioneering female designer in a male-dominated industry, she was one of the major designers of woven silk for London’s thriving Spitalfields silk industry in the mid-18th century. Her delicate drawing and naturalistic floral sprig patterns brought her enduring fame.
‘All known designs by Anna Maria Garthwaite are in the V&A’s collection,’ says the V&A’s Amelia Calver. ‘There are over 1,000 designs altogether dating from 1726–56. Her decision to pursue a career in silk design in spite of her lack of formal education and expertise was incredible for the time.’
© Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Celebrating nature
‘The designs are beautiful,’ says Deborah, ‘and when we realised they were created by a woman, this really drew us in. Most items in the V&A archive, bar the 20th century onwards, are not credited to women.’
‘Anna Maria Garthwaite lived in a time of exploration and industrialisation, when it was important to feel a connection to nature,’ explains Deborah. ‘We felt this re-connection to nature was very relevant to our current times and the OB brand. As the colour palettes Garthwaite used are very evocative of the golden “autumnal” colours in nature, we honoured this by launching the range in September.’
The design process
Initial sketches were made to capture the graceful curves of the blossom motifs and the sweeping strokes of the stems. A copy of the drawings was then used to create basic prototypes from paper, which were used to design the molds to make the jewellery pieces. Each piece was finished off individually, adding detail by hand such as the pink enamel flowers and glass beads.
Standout styles
‘The statement cuff bangle is a particular favourite of mine,’ says Rebecca. ‘It has a hinged clasp and two standout blossoms. It’s a bold, eye-catching piece that would look stunning worn both day and night. But I often like to mix high and low, and it can easily be worn to elevate an everyday look.’
V&A | Oliver Bonas Gold Tone Flower Drop Earrings
V&A | Oliver Bonas
V&A | Oliver Bonas Gold Tone Petal Drop Earrings
V&A | Oliver Bonas
V&A | Oliver Bonas Enamel Flower Gold Tone Hoop Earrings Small
V&A | Oliver Bonas
V&A | Oliver Bonas Gold Tone Flower Tassel Earrings
V&A | Oliver Bonas
V&A | Oliver Bonas Enamel Flower Gold Tone Hoop Earrings Large
V&A | Oliver Bonas
V&A | Oliver Bonas Gold Tone Flower Tassel Brooch
V&A | Oliver Bonas
V&A | Oliver Bonas Gold Tone Flower Statement Cuff Bangle
V&A | Oliver Bonas
V&A | Oliver Bonas Gold Tone Leaf Chain Bracelet
V&A | Oliver Bonas
V&A | Oliver Bonas Gold Tone Flower Statement Chain Necklace
V&A | Oliver Bonas
V&A | Oliver Bonas Gold Tone Leaf Pendant Necklace
V&A | Oliver Bonas